We sure hope that after this entry, we will not have to write that here we sit in our camper with the rain pouring down. Funny, Juneau the “Forest Capital” also gets 107 inches of rain per year. We hiked for 3.5 miles in it today (up the Mendenhall Glacier East Trail) and while still beautiful, we looked at each other and said ….we need some sunshine here. So to tempt fate, we purchased two expensive Gortex hiking hats and we will let you know if the trick worked! If you had seen our wet hats you would understand the purchase.
A philosophic note-as we were boarding the Fast Ferry ‘Fairweather’ from Sitka to Juneau, the captain announced that due to the narrowness of the “Peril Straight” (huh?), he would be making … and I quote “bold corrections in both course and speed.” What an interesting way to think about life …certainly not all phases of one’s life… but some? So watch for the bold corrections.
More highlights:
• Hiking in SE Alaska has been very … you guessed it … wet. That said, we have had some wonderful hiking moments -- some even in the sun.
*Herring Cove: Bears and shotguns – so we had just returned from this wonderful hike up from Herring Cove with the beginning made up of chest high grasses. We knew that there were more Grizzly Bears on Baranof Island than people, so much to Tom’s dismay I had been working through my Broadway tunes repertoire. As we exited the trail, two young men, with shotguns strapped across their chests, were about to begin it. I asked about hunting (naively) and they said …oh we are just hiking but we never hike without a shotgun! Bears, you know! We then found out that the bears are in transition right now waiting for the salmon and berries. And what do they eat? Grasses. P.S. Some Sitkans have never seen a bear.
*Boardwalks and more boardwalks: Almost every hike we have taken since we arrived has involved wooden planks, steps, and bridges. Many of each! Really many, many as the photos will show. While Tom has been amazed at some of the wonderful woodworking, my knees have yearned for the now enviable CO switchbacks!
• The Flora: While we were in absolutely perfect timing for the Rhoddies (everywhere), we are still a bit early for the masses of wildflowers. We see hints of Fireweed and had a few beautiful stretches of Lupine. Miss Rumphius was busy in Alaska. We have learned quite a bit about some of the rainforest and muskeg plants … Devil’s Club or Skunk Cabbage anyone? The blue flower is the Himalayan Poppy that we saw in an Arboretum. Lovely, no?
• The Fauna tally: One Grizzly Sow and Cub (from a distance on the ferry); two whale flukes (pretty up close and personal); a raft of sea otters (just as cute as you think they are); many, many Bald Eagles; Redbreasted Sapsuckers; Great Blue Herons and of course those two wolves. Keeping track belies the magnificence of actually seeing each of these creatures in their natural environment. Thrilling.
• Sitka itself: We just loved Sitka with its intriguing and complicated history … Tlingit, Russian and American … and its beauty. There is a wonderful National Historic Park that explores both the Tlingit and Russian cultures and histories. As is true everywhere in North America, it is very sobering to contemplate what has happened to our native peoples. And it would trivialize it if included as a blog entry. Just know that this awareness is a part of our trip – as well as a great appreciation for the tenacity and creativity of this special group of people. We also learned a lot about commercial fishing … and that up here talking about eating farm raised fish … well, thems fighting words. We hated to leave … had more to see and wished we could have stayed and enjoyed some lazy days there. We also had 2 beautiful days with bright sun. I tell Tom I would like to visit again!
• Death by Motorboat: Oy vay. Our new friends Darryl and Sheri (whose son lives in Aurora!)and the two of us hired a smallish boat with this express purpose: poke around the numerous, wonderful looking islands and to see otters! Period. Done. Our operator after showing us otters, persuaded us that it would be good to see whales. Just down the next wave, he’d say. Two whales later, and still feeling confident of the boat and driver, he persuaded us that we must see St. Lazarius Island – a lava rock island where millions of birds roost, including the tropical looking Puffin. OK. When we reached the middle of open ocean (this can be embellished in the years to come as well as the kayak adventure), he said … this is a bit rougher than I thought. Then when the deep swells began and a big one crept up beside and he said, ‘wow that was a big one.’ … I was DONE. White knuckled it all the way back (the dang Puffins were cute!) and collapsed in our bunk. Be surprised; be very surprised if ANY of our further adventures involve water and a water conveyance.
As we mentioned before we have been lucky to meet new friends and we have been sharing our lives and some adventures (like wolves and death by motorboat). Darryl Painter is a fantastic photographer. Please give him credit for the eagle, otter and puffin photos. We were along for the ‘ride’ and he was good enough to share them with us … and now with you. We hope to see them again in Denver in late fall.
We love hearing from you. We apologize for brief responses in advance. Sending special love to our goils and boys and pets.
Until next time.
JP and Tom
